While I get my specific gluten free Japan city and restaurant notes in order, I thought it would be helpful to do an overview post about the best and worst parts of my three months in Japan. It was truly a life changing trip for me, one of the best trips I’ve ever been on and also one of the hardest.

We spent three months in Japan, mostly exploring beyond the popular Golden Route of Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto, where most of the well known gluten free restaurants are found. I traveled with my partner, who is not celiac but follows a high-protein, meat-free diet. This meant that some of the simplest gluten free options, like yakiniku or Japanese barbecue, were often off-limits unless they offered good seafood alternatives. I’ll share more about our experiences soon, but for now, here are some of the best and most challenging aspects of my gluten free Japan trip.

The Good

1) By nature, much of Japanese cuisine is naturally gluten free. Historically, gluten has not been a major part of the Japanese diet, so many traditional dishes remain in their original, gluten free form in various regions.

2) The Japanese love of rice means that rice flour baked goods can be exceptional. I enjoyed some of the best rice flour treats of my life in Japan, and they weren’t even the sweet kinds. While I appreciate gluten free sweets as much as any celiac (perhaps slightly less, but I’m definitely not against treats), what I truly miss from my gluten-filled days are the savory items—croissants, bagels, pizzas, and more. Japan excels at these savory delights in a way I hadn’t experienced since studying abroad in Italy during college.

3) If they will let you eat their restaurant, they will take your food allergies very seriously and do their very best to accommodate you! Yes, we did often get asked to leave restaurants after they read my gluten free Japan translation card but I also never got glutened once on our three month trip. I am a symptomatic celiac who is fairly sensitive to cross contamination and feel really grateful to all of the servers and cooks who did their best to keep me safe on our trip. We were also fairly cautious in our approach to picking restaurants, weren’t afraid to leave if the vibe was off and did our best to avoid cross contact whenever possible.

Overall, the restaurants we visited provided a safe dining experience. The only times I felt unwell were after eating some questionable Thai food—an experience shared by my non-celiac partner—and possibly from a mislabeled konbini snack. When I have a serious gluten reaction, it usually lasts 3-4 days and feels like a mix of food poisoning and the flu, so I consider myself fortunate to have only experienced minor issues during our trip.

The Bad

1) Awareness about gluten is extremely low in Japan. Unfortunately, even some restaurants that claim to be ‘gluten free’ serve items containing gluten, often barley, and may even deny that barley contains gluten. While wheat is a common allergen in Japan and must be listed on packaging and allergy menus, knowledge about barley is minimal. This lack of awareness leads to many celiacs accidentally getting sick. Don’t let this discourage you from a gluten free Japan trip but do take your preparations seriously for this reason alone!

2) Gluten regulations from your home country may not apply in Japan. Depending on where you live, you might be used to certain foods being gluten free or specific labeling standards that give you confidence in eating various products. In Japan, it’s best to disregard those assumptions. Not only might your favorite products from home contain gluten here, but the term ‘gluten free’ is not legally regulated as it is elsewhere. Always check ingredient lists carefully, even if a product is labeled ‘gluten free.’

3) In Japan, gluten free, vegan, and healthy food options are often grouped together. Many cafes offer gluten free and vegan choices aimed at health-conscious people rather than celiacs. This can work well if you are a gluten free vegan or have a dairy allergy, but it can be challenging if you are a celiac sensitive to cross-contact who relies on animal proteins. If you tolerate soy or other vegan proteins, there are several fully vegan, fully gluten free restaurants, as well as many vegan spots with gluten free options that might be riskier but acceptable. In fact, gluten free vegans may find it easier to navigate Japan’s food scene than non-vegan celiacs due to the abundance of vegan restaurants.